·The Roman Wall west of Houscstcads.

·ILLUSTRATED REGIONAL GUIDES TO
ANCIENT MONUMENTS
under the ownership or guardianship of
His Majesty's Office of Works
Volume I
NORTHERN ENGLAND
BY
Tue Rt Hon W ORMSBY GORE, FSA, MP
First Commissioner of Works
LONDON HIS MAJESTY'S STATIONERY OFFICE
1936

·To be purchased directly from
H.M. STATIONERY OFFICE at the following addresses:
Adastral lousc, Kingsway, London, W.C.:;
I 20 Gcorge Strect, Edinburgh 2; 26 York Street, Manchester 1:
i St. Andrew's Crescent, Cardiff; So Chichester Street, Belfast;
or through any bookseller
Price is, od, nct
Crown Copyright Reserved

·CON
PREFACE
PREHISTORIC PERIOD
ROMAN PERIOD
MEDIÆVAL PERIOD
MONASTIC BUILDINGS
CASTLES
NOTES
BIBLIOGRAPHY

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·ILLUSTRATIONS Roman Wall Frontispiece OrPOS TE PAGE IS 39 14 9 SY 29 21 8 44 Bewcastle Cross Brougham Castle Byland Abbey Corbridge Roman Station Dunstanburgh Castle Easby Abbey Furness Abbey Goathland Roman Road Helmsley Castle Kirkham Abbey Lanercost Priory Lindisfarne Priory Norham Castle Richmond Castle Rievaulx Abbey Scarborough Castle Tynemouth Priory Warkworth Castle Whitby Abbey 20 28 35 38 54 24 SO 34 45 25

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·PREFACE The purpose of these regional guides to the monu ments in the ownership or guardianship of the Office of Works under the Ancient Monuments Acts of 1913 and 1931 is to provide visitors with a brief outline of the history and principal features of each type of monument in the area covered by the guide Almost all the work of conservation and improvement of amenities in con nection with these monuments has been carried out since the close of the Great European War It has been the policy of my Department, while deliberately avoiding restoration or rebuilding, to preserve such monuments as have been committed to its care in a manner more worthy of their national importance and historic interest It has been our aim to make the monuments as intelligible as possible to the ordinary Individual guide books, the work of experts, for each of the more important monuments either have been published or are in course of preparation Plans showing successive building dates are included in these monographs and are displayed in frames at the monu The Department s custodians have instructions not only to maintain the amenities of the monuments but also to assist visitors with such information as they are able to give These regional guides are accordingly designed to supplement the more detailed archäological data Visitor ments 7 ·8 PREFACE available by a more general and popular account of all the monuments in a group of counties. It is hoped that they will enable the visitor to know what other monuments exist in the neighbourhood of any one he may happen to visit, and to place any individual monument in its historical setting in relation to other monuments of a similar kind. The story of our past is written not only in history books but in stone. But quite apart from their appeal to our historical sense, many of our monuments are great works of art, the legacy of wonderful craftsmen in successive ages. Until recently, the popular idea of ruins was that they should be picturesque and preferably ivy-clad. To-day, with the advance of knowledge, people want to learn more about the ruins, and to study the styles of building and ornament that may be found in them, without, in most cases, being troubled by the jargon of technical terms. Some of the latter are inevitable even in a popular guide. But in the main, this first of the proposed series of regional guides is written primarily for amateurs, and its production will be justified if it can add to the numbers of those who enjoy and take a pride in our national heritage. W. ORMSBY GORE.

·Goathland The Roman Road ·Corbridge Roman Station. The West Granary.

·PREHISTORIC PERIOD 1 1се LLL The long glacial epoch that probably terminated in Britain about 8000 BC dr A few tops of the Pennin may have stood above t The Kirkdale cave a UL TICAL, ilds yielded the bones of the hyena, hippopotamus, lion, straight tushed elephant and the slender nosed rhinoceros, evidences of the pre glacial animals of our country In its retreat the glacier deposited between Tad caster on the Wharfe and a point just south of York on the Ouse a great terminal moraine or bank of stones across the vale of York, which in the subsequent "Atlantic" period, when the climate was warm and very wet, proved the one possible highway through the Vharfedale to the Wolds Bronze Age man called Cresswell Crag culture seems to have hung on to a miserable existence on the edges of the ice through the last glacial epoch, and even to have survived into the succeeding warm dry or "Boreal” period During this--the Mesolithic -age, hunters and fishermen from across the North Sea reached our north eastern coasts They were pro bably very primitive folk, ignorant of agriculture and of domestic animals, and it was not until the end of the third millennium before Christ that we find the evidences of occupation of settled cultures in the East Yorkshire Wolds, continuing there successively till Roman times 9 ·IO PREHISTORIC PERIOD The Yorkshire coast would appear to have been one of the chief lines of entry of wave after wave of invading settlement for the three thousand years before the Norman Conquest. There are many reasons why the first agricultural settlers in Britain selected the chalk downs and wolds as their dwelling places, but the main reason was climatic. The dry." Boreal” climate had given way to the wet “ Atlantic,” and Lowland Britain was one gigantic forest or marsh. The heath and peat uplands were water-logged in winter and, with the means at neolithic man's disposal, uncultivable and irreclaimable. Only the chalk and the limestone gave him the means of existence, and the former contained the most essential raw material for his weapons and implements, namely, flint. In the East Yorkshire uplands the remains of no less than twenty-five long barrows are known as against only one west of the vale of York. Wherever measurable the skulls found in these long barrows are found to be long and narrow. The long barrows were communal burial places, the bones (usually partly burnt) of many individuals being found in them. With them are found leaf- or lozenge-shaped flint arrow heads, flint axes with rounded butts, flint knives and numerous sherds of smooth, black, round-bottomed pottery. Similar barrows occur in the Lincolnshire Wolds, the Cotswolds, Wiltshire, Dorset, Hampshire and Sussex. These long-headed, long-barrow people are the first of our direct ancestors who can be called civilized, and they came from Western Europe, probably from Spain and Portugal. wheat, had domestic animals, showed remarkable skill in making their neolithic implements and round-bottomed pottery, and were the first to move large stones in connection with the ritual of their burying places. They cultivated ·PREHISTORIC PERIOD II They lived on chalk uplands, hunted the wild red deer, and avoided the forest clad lowlands Theit characteristic long barrows seem to be completely absent from Cumberland and Northumberland This long barrow civilization probably reached East Yorkshire late in its history, not before zooo BC, and was thus contemporary with the invasion of the round headed "beaker" folk who probably reached Yorkshire from Holland and Germany, round about 1900 BC, and settled in the same sites Their beakers or drinking vessels were made of a fine, light coloured pottery, had a pronounced waist slightly above their middle height, and flat bottoms Over 150 or about one third of the total number of complete beakers found in England have been found in Yorkshire, and of these no less than 133 came from the Wolds A few beaker sherds have been found near the North umberland coast, and the beaker culture certainly spread to parts of Cumberland At first the beaker folk were still in the neolithic stage, but during their dominance the first bronze implements-daggers and flat areswere introduced by trade, probably from the Spanish peninsula In addition to Aint axes they used in York shire polished stone axes of a volcanic ash greenstone from Borrowdale in Cumberland More than half the polished stone axes (other than flint) found in the Wolds are of this material, and the Cumberland beakers are identical in form with the Yorkshire Wold beakers Perhaps the most remarkable and important Early Bronze Age beaker burial known was found at Kelly thorpe Turm, near Driffield (East Riding) It con sisted of the skeleton of a tall man buried without any cremation in a crouching position with knees doubled up under the chin and arms crossed When found the skeleton still had the fragmentary remains of a woven ·IO PREHISTORIC PERIOD The Yorkshire coast would appear to have been one of the chicf lincs of cntry of wave after wave of invading settlement for the three thousand years before the Norman Conquest. There are many reasons why the first agricultural scttlers in Britain selected the chalk downs and wolds as their dwelling places, but the main reason was climatic. The dry “Boreal” climate had given way to the wet " Atlantic,” and Lowland Britain was one gigantic forest or marsh. The heath and peat uplands were water-logged in winter and, with the means at ncolithic man's disposal, uncultivable and irreclaimable. Only thc chalk and the limestone gave him the means of existence, and the former contained the most essential raw material for his weapons and implements, namely, Aint. In the East Yorkshire uplands the remains of no less than twenty-five long barrows are known as against only one west of the vale of York. Wherever measurable the skulls found in these long barrows are found to be long and narrow. The long barrows were communal burial places, the bones (usually partly burnt) of many individuals being found in them. With them are found leaf- or lozenge-shaped flint arrow heads, Aint axes with rounded butts, flint knives and numerous sherds of smooth, black, round-bottomed pottery, Similar barrows occur in the Lincolnshire Wolds, the Cotswolds, Wiltshire, Dorset, Hampshire and Sussex. These long-headed, long-barrow people are the first of our direct ancestors who can be called civilized, and they came from Western Europe, probably from Spain and Portugal. wheat, had domestic animals, showed remarkable skill in making their neolithic implements and round-bottomed pottery, and were the first to move large stones in connection with the ritual of their burying places. They cultivated ·PREHISTORIC PERIOD II They lived on chalk uplands, hunted the wild red deer, and avoided the forest clad lowlands Their characteristic long barrows seem to be completely absent from Cumberland and Northumberland This long barrow civilization probably reached East Yorkshire late in its hustory, not before 2000 BC, and was thus contemporary with the invasion of the round headed "beaker" folk who probably reached Yorkshire from Holland and Germany, round about 1900 BC, and settled in the same sites Therr beakers or drinking vessels were made of a fine, light coloured pottery, had a pronounced waist slightly above their middle height, and flat bottoms Over 150 or about one thurd of the total number of complete beakers found in England have been found in Yorkshire, and of these no less than 133 came from the Wolds A few beaher sherds have been found near the North umberland coast, and the beaker culture certainly spread to parts of Cumberland At first the beaker folk were still in the neolithic stage, but during their dominance the first bronze implements—daggers and flat axes-- were introduced by trade, probably from the Spanish peninsula In addition to flint axes they used in York shire polished stone axes of a volcanic ash greenstone from Borrowdale in Cumberland More than half the polished stone axes (other than fint) found in the Wolds are of this material, and the Cumberland beakers are identical i form with the Yorkshire Wold beahers Perhaps the most remarkable and important Early Bronze Age beakst burial known was found at Kelly thorpe Form, Rear Driffield (East Riding) It con sisted of the skeleton of a tall man buried without any cremation in a crouching position with knees doubled up under the chin and arms crossed When found the sheleton still had the fragmentary remains of a woven ·12 material, arrow heads, this would have been the gradually East Yorksurse of time the original form of beaker was if the visit the wider and squatter “food ressel," Sixty-six on the Garrow. ndred and fifty-four of these" food- Es well as the trade ining found leveland Hills. The number and ariety of bronze infes, the born found in the Yorkshire Wolds, and etween Ireland and thetts, flint kn? gold. The latter without much the finds of flat bronzlund-bottold, and one of the trade routes Calder past Nelson and brset, Ham. Ribble and its tributar Oraine; thence up Garrowby who can b.s and Otler to the York ap to Skipton, and so by Ilklèg-barrow Colne, through the dirt cough Head to Denmark and NoiThey culti either side of Flamoss the North Sea from partstern EuropHill to the l'olds and two earliest prehistoric trade rü'nd-botte Cumberland tree the Stainmoor Pass route into 'narkable skuth Germany. This PREHISTORIC PERIOD shroud. Bchind the waist was a small plain bronze dagger and fragments of its wooden handle and sheath. At his neck were three large conical amber beads (of Baltic origin). On his right forearm (he must have been left handed) was a Cumbrian greenstone wristguard to protect his wrist from the recoil of the bowstring, attached by means of a lcather arm-band studded andw. with three gold-licaded studs (probably of Irish origin). high. Habovc his knces was the skeleton of the head of a hawk, barbed flint. Ihan laind th fcct a characteristic “ beaker” , inches idcally coms' and tihere been in addition some tanged and In the chi t. plete Early Bronze Age beaker burial. and later which seems?ty-five Irreplaced in burials by a modified local type, tion. Two hun wessels ” have befnd in ito represent a new element in the popular pears to have been up ththe Lincolia Continent can be established axes and gold lunult. nines. The food-vessel folk gradually took to cremat.. ead of interring their dead, and developed a Wtes across ·PREHISTORIC PERIOD 13 characteristic form of large cinerary urn in which their ashes and calcined bones were placed under round barrows Over 450 such large urns have been found Yorkshire and in this period man began effective descent from the uplands into the vale of lork We have every reason to believe that after the comparatively wet period of neolithic and Early Bronze Age times the climate of Britain became much drier and so remained until a renewal of wetter and Atlantic type conditions in the Early Iron Age in the West Tanfield Boroughbridge area definite association has been established between these urn burials and the flanged axe of the Bronze Age six examples of the wide flanged type coming from this area alone Neither copper nor tin has ever been found in York shire and all bronze implements must have been traded from a distance With these cinerary urn folk we have reached the Middle Bronze Age probably about 100 BC The Late Bronze Age is attested in Yorkshire by the discovery often in hoards of looped and socketed axes of north Alpine type and the introduction of the first bronze swords, nes types of bronze spear head Late Bronze Age finds in Yorkshire are ommonest near the coast and throughout Holderness, nd would seem to point to trade with North West ermany if not to an actual invasion from that quarter o Late Bronze Age implements have been found in orkshire barrows or in any sites connected with the terary urn folk, who are unknown in Holderness me of these newcomers very likely lived in pile ellings in marshy country In 1926 on the Castle Hill at Scarborough an portant occupation of sochet are folk was discovered int definite association with pottery of Hallstatt type (so called from the famous necropolis in Upper also appear B

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·PREHISTORIC PERIOD IS peoples Curiously these are fairly numerous in Cum berland and Westmorland, especially in the form of large stone circles, which are unknown in Yorkshire The best known megaliths in Yorkshire are the three “Devil's Arrows" near Boroughbridge These are large (two of them 22 and the other 18 feet high) monoliths erected in "a line" north and south at intervals of nearly 100 yards They are made of mill stone grit from near Knaresborough and, standing in an area where Middle Bronze Age cinerary urn burials are frequent, probably date from this age As to the age and purpose of the Cumbrian megalithic circles we are still quite in the dark Recent excavation at Avebury, in Wiltshire, has proved that he megalithic avenue leading to the great circle is definitely assignable to the age of the beaker folk when still in the stage of neolithic culture before bronze was known to them, at any rate in that area therefore erected about 1800 BC There are at least four megalithic stone circles in Cumberland whose size is such that they were pro The best a diameter les are at Swinside, near Broughton, and in Eskdale The latter, almost exactly the same size as the Keswich circle, contains within it five small round barrows, each with a colonnade or peristalıth of stones round their bases But by far the largest and most remarkable 15 " Long Meg, and her Daughters” near Little Salkeld, about 7 miles north east of Penrith This circle ranks fourth in importance in England as a whole, after Avebury, It was ·16 PREHISTORIC PERIOD due north and south. Outside the circle (if we may use the word) stands Long Meg, the tallest stone of all, due south-west of the crossing point of the axes. On this stone has been a curious small cup mark surrounded by two concentric circles. The other two stones outside the circle, one of which is still standing, form a sort of gateway situated between south-west and south. The stones vary very much in size. The smaller ones are apparently unhewn, but most of the larger ones seem to have been shaped in a very similar manner to the broader stones in the West Kennet Avenue at Avebury. In addition, these shaped stones show signs of having been dressed on the inner side. The great circle of Shap in Westmorland, of which Stukeley's record in the early eighteenth century exists, appears to have had an accompanying megalithic avenue leading down to the river Lowther. Half the inner circle remains close to the railway line, and a few stones of the avenue can be seen. We are still uncertain regarding the purpose and date or dates of the megalithic circles and avenues which are such a feature of the prehistoric remains in Britain and, to all intents and purposes, of no other country except Brittany. Further scientific excavation of such circles as Stanton Drew in Somerset, Long Meg and her Daughters in Cumberland, and Callernish in the Island of Lewis may yet reveal their secrets. For the present we must be content to doubt their present popular and quite unscientific ascription to the Druids, the “Brahmins of the latest arrivals among the Celtic tribes found in Central Gaul and Britain by the Romans. More probably the megalithic idea was first introduced by the long-barrow longheads, and the idea was continued and developed by the round-headed beaker folk.

·THE ROMAN PERIOD
T
Brigantes the Romans came to terms, and it was their
Queen Cartimandua who surrendered Caratacus to
them, when he had fled to her for refuge For thirty
years the Brigantes remained independent, though dis
tracted by civil war, in which Rome from time to time
intervened But in about A D 73 the Roman conquest
of the north of England began The IX Legion was
then based on Lincoln, whence a military road was
pushed northwards to the Humber at Brough, and
thence northward along the western base of the Wolds
to Malton Roman vessels, as Vikings' vessels later,
could navigate the Ouse as far as Yorh, and about
AD 75 York became the depot of the IX Legion
York Minster to day occupies what was approximately
the centre of the original Roman Fortress
From A D 78-85 Agricola was Governor of Britain
and from the terse pages of his son in law Tacitus as
well as from the contemporar archäological evidence
we can deduce the history of his great campaigns first
in North Wales and then into Scotland Edward I
seems to have been a reincarnation of Agricola 1,200
After dealing with the Welsh, Agricola
built and “fortified ” his new roads from Chester to
Ribchester on the Ribble, thence following the pre
historic route through the Aire gap and Ilkley to
years later
17

·18 THE ROMAN PERIOD Aldborough, which became a Roman town under the name of Isurium Brigantium. Similarly, from Ribchester the Roman road was pushed due north through Lancaster, Tebay, Crosby Ravensworth to Carlisle. Professor Haverfield attributes to Agricola the construction of the Roman road from York through Aldborough, to Cataractonium (the modern Catterick, once again a camp), thence to Corstopitum, near Corbridge on the Tyne, and thence to Newstead on the Tweed. From just north of Cataractonium another road along another well-defined prehistoric route crossed the Stainmoor pass to Carlisle and is still the modern motorist's highway to Scotland. Agricola also constructed a road with some intervening forts upon it from Carlisle to Corstopitum, some few miles south of the line later followed by Hadrian's Wall. The scanty remnants of Agricola's road are known to-day as the “ Stanegate.” Agricola's advance into Scotland was probably from Corstopitum up Redesdale to Jedburgh. In the first years of the second century the Brigantes, allied with the Northern Caledonians, rose in revolt, and the Roman possessions in Scotland were lost. The frontier was temporarily stabilized on the line of Agricola's Stane Street, and some new forts were built near this road. In the course of this revolt the IX Legion at York was annihilated, and was replaced by the VI Legion from the Lower Rhine. In A.D. 121 the Emperor Hadrian arrived in person to avenge thc Roman defeat. He decided to establish a scientific frontier to the Empire from the Tyne to the Solway, and to him and his legate and pro-prætor Aulus Platorius Nepos we owe the construction of the grcat wall that still bears the Emperor's name. In about A.D. 145 the Emperor Antoninus Pius reconquered the Lowlands of Scotland, and a new frontier-line was ·THE ROMAN PERIOD 19 established from the Forth to the Clyde Hadrian's wall, however, was still manned For fifty years this state of affairs continued, until in 196 Clodius Albinus, governor of Britain, denuded the province of troops, to fight for the throne of the Empire against Septimius Severus He was defeated and slain at Lyons in Gaul, and the northern parts of Britain were invaded by the barbarians who ravaged and destroyed as far south as the legionary fortresses of York and Chester The governor appointed by Septimius Severus had to buy off the invaders However, in 208 Seterus himself came to Britain and re established the authority of Rome, penetrating far into Scotland He did not, however, reoccupy the Low lands, but restored and strengthened the defences of Hadrian's Wall, which thus became again the frontier He died at York in 211 The land had peace for seventy seven years till the rebellion of Carausius, who commanded the Roman fleet in Britain, and established himself as a semi independent Emperor On his assassination the Wall was again overrun, to be restored ngain by Constantius Chlorus in 296 He too died at York in 305 Again there was a long peace till the renewed disasters of 367, and it was only partially re stored by Theodosius in 370 In 395 Stilicho cleared the prounce that had been razed by invaders by land and sea, but in 402 on account of the desperate situation in Italy he recalled the legion from York, and in 410 the usurper Constantine III in his gamble for the throne w11hdrew the last Roman garrisons and they never returned Thereafter for more than 150 years history silent, until Aella, the first recorded Anglian King of Deira (Yorkshire) reigned in 585 In the west there is evidence in the silth century of the somewhat shadowy Celtic Kingdom of Strathclyde, stretching from the Clyde west of the Pennines to the Mersey, ·18 THE ROMAN PERIOD Aldborough, which became a Roman town under the name of Isurium Brigantium. Similarly, from Ribchester the Roman road was pushed due north through Lancaster, Tebay, Crosby Ravensworth to Carlisle. Professor Haverfield attributes to Agricola the construction of the Roman road from York through Aldborough, to Cataractonium (the modern Catterick, once again a camp), thence to Corstopitum, near Corbridge on the Tyne, and thence to Newstead on the Tweed. From just north of Cataractonium another road along another well-defined prehistoric route crossed the Stainmoor pass to Carlisle and is still the modern motorist's highway to Scotland. Agricola also constructed a road with some intervening forts upon it from Carlisle to Corstopitum, some few miles south of the line later followed by Hadrian's Wall. The scanty remnants of Agricola's road are known to-day as the“ Stanegate.” Agricola's advance into Scotland was probably from Corstopitum up Redesdale to Jedburgh. In the first years of the second century the Brigantes, allied with the Northern Caledonians, rose in revolt, and the Roman possessions in Scotland were lost. The frontier was temporarily stabilized on the line of Agricola's Stane Street, and some new forts were built near this road. In the course of this revolt the IX Legion at York was annihilated, and was replaced by the VI Legion from the Lower Rhine. In A.D. 121 the Emperor Hadrian arrived in person to avenge the Roman defeat. He decided to establish a scientific frontier to the Empire from the Tyne to the Solway, and to him and his legate and pro-prætor Aulus Platorius Nepos we owe the construction of the great wall that still bears the Emperor's name. In about A.D. 145 the Emperor Antoninus Pius reconquered the Lowlands of Scotland, and a new frontier-line was ·Kirkham Abbey The Gatehouse ·161 Furness Abbey. Cloister East side.

·THE ROMAN PERIOD 21 defensive advantages of the ground Consequently, its distance from the wall varies throughout It has not been found east of Newcastle At Benu ell a causeway crossing the Vallum to give access to the Tort to the mouth + the - ? It 15 and across the North Tyne at Chollerford Much of these bridges remained till the great flood of the year 1771, and fragments can still be seen at Corbridge and Chollerford Corstopitum, near Corbudge, was originally one of Agricola's forts then during the operations in Scotland in the second and third centuries, It became a military town and supply depot When the Scottish conquests were abandoned, it became a civil town It lies about 25 miles south of the wall, and from Corstopitum the main road ran south through Catterick to York Corstopitum was partially excavated just before the War, in 1907-14, and mostly covered in again now again hennar h I W bbcu soors and elaborate basement ventilation, and the remains of a portico of columns along their southern elevations Nearby is a large square building, perhaps the “ principia or headquarter offices of the administration, whose walls were composed of verv large rusticated blocks of stone Dwelling-houses, with the usual hypocausts, and shops are numerous The “ finds ” include many fine inscriptions, altars, sculptures (including the famous Corbridge lion) and masses of pottery, some of it "Castor" ware from Northamptonshire and Terra sigillata (often called Samsan ware) from Gaul and the Rhine The coins found extend over practically the whole range of the » ·EE BOX PERIO Rome acceso a: Baz. Cicercada secas cerca oss golpecas. Is acado 0 de ane Romanian e esconde ou cada 25 25 cou: acco Ois 2o Doce Ega Rochester C Riscscaia Recacia, cosesced Coson 73 Romo mizo cas, a Berezsie in Sonn-Eas: Cumbeascc, concecec br. 2 2020 ze 120 For 21 Cezbog Bircostas, ad se Verzezbris Esecale. Fonce Ke Hac-ostaes nee Legicas Teze seg i Bizismen iie sacocd (irgiz based cena Cze:20, e sista fica, ca York 20 ise zwensie reeds VicaCoester. Tosse Legions, ach of ore 5.000 dea of all arms teze consei esser of Roman citizeas, were cigaraiec acc baranec. Ezco Legion Fred eczed as a ucii. Eices: in mes o cite ocazcoas e ache garcisovics o ice tail ras ciec oc c0: br legio aces Ducoriace organizecimo Cocoon ci ca 250 "2"ocara usce: Rom23 ocens. Legioadas as we as auritanies were cana com a pas of the Ezgie. Obe masz zemodals o Se ose Valtoa: Bare ceea cea vec coceis 2013 coccesz za ice icscribes Torre soces -c ains cecicazec oz iscrida sociers to Vers, co juge. 0 Enes, ecc. Vezi ca joc vas przodu.. (commandes oice:'s souse) acc backs isere goes up cepeace ages inhabited or ire wires, camp oliorers acc adess. Pu: 2.0 00: ericesces of men are eseciec. It is perhaps o Hacaac's Wall eres more car is Rozek se we ac de impressed in die migrirjest one Roman Empire, cheioramicspires aceite degree of organizacios and accordin: it arraiced io: screzi ·THE ROMAN PERIOD 23 centuiles The wall is the silent witness, in many ways the most remarkable in all Europe, of one of the greatest endeavours of human history The greatest destruction of the wall took place after the Jacobite Rising in 1745 That Prince Charlie ever got so far south as Derby was due to the fact that there was then no adequate road for George II's arny and arullery across the Pennines from Yorkshure or Northumberland Accordingly, when Prince Charlie had been defeated, a proper road from Newcastle to Carlisle was ordered to be made by an Act of Parliament passed in 1751 For much of its length this new road was built either on or of the Roman Wall From the tourist point of view to day the finest stretches remain ing are those between Chollerford and Greenhead, where the wall followed the winding line of whinstone crags through desolate moorland country Along this stretch the road of 175 1 was made somewhat south of the actual wall Between Lanercost and Gilsland in Cumberland there are appreciable remains running alongside much of the present highway, and in this stretch can be seen not only the fine fort at Bırdoswald but a stone turret a little to the west recently excavated by the Cumberland Excavation Committee and conserved by the Office of Works, actually on the public road A survival of the carly days of the Roman Conquest, in the last quarter of the first century, is to be seen in the camps at Cawthorn, on the moors north of Pickering Farther to the north, in the wild moorland country ne road prese Works first century, but may well have been repaired and reconditioned in the fourth For, from the end of the third century onwards, the 7 ·02 Whithy Abbey. Choir and North Transcpt.

·MEDIÆVAL PERIOD It has been possible, so far, to relate the monuments to brief historical surveys, but now that the mediæval period has been reached with its manifold developments in religious and secular architecture and art it will be more convenient to readers to depart from this plan. The medieval monuments will be dealt with under the two main heads, ecclesiastical and secular, and, instead of a history illustrated by the archæological remains, so much will be given by way of historical introduction as is necessary to an under standing of the individual monuments MONASTIC BUILDINGS The Northern Counties are justly famous for their monastic ruins, the abbeys and priories of Yorkshire alone exceeding in number and magnificence those of any other county in England In our region the Commissioners of Works are now the guardians of fourteen structures, including some of the finest These are the Benedictine abbey of Whitby and the Benedictine priories of Lindisfarne, Tynemouth and Finchale, the Cistercian abbeys of Rievaulx, Byland, Roche and Futness, the Præmonstratensian abbeys of Easby and Egglestone, the Augustinian priories of Lanercost, Kirkham and Gisborough, and, finally, the Cluniac priory of Monk Bretton, near Barnsley The most important monastic ruins not in the custody of the Commissioners are the Cistercian abbeys 25 ·26 JEDIL VAL PERIOD of Fountains, Kirkstall and Jervaulx, the Benedictine abbey of St. Mary at York, and the very remarkable Carthusian llousc of Mount Grace, near Northallerton. Apart from ruins, the splendid Bencdictine abbey of Selby, and the finc Augustinian priories of Hexham, Brinkburn, Bridlington, Bolton in Wharfedale and Cartmcl are still in use as parish churches, In addition to the historical and architectural interest of the actual buildings it would be difficult to find anywhere in Europe a more romantic ruin than Lindisfarne or one in a more splendid setting than the incomparablc Ricvaulx. The first attempt to Christianize pagan Northumbria was made by Paulinus, a follower of St. Augustine, early in the scventh century, but this cffort was followed by a pagan reaction, and the cvangelization of the North was due to the mission of St. Aidan from Iona in the rcign of King, afterwards Saint, Oswald in A.D. 635. St. Aidan became the first Abbot-Bishop of Holy Island (Lindisfarne). The story of this famous monastic see is illuminated by the career of the sixth Abbot-Bishop, St. Cuthbert, who was first buried in the place of honour on the right of the High Altar of Lindisfarnc. When the pagan Vikings descended upon Holy Island in A.D. 875 and destroyed the monastery, the monks removed his body elsewhere, and finally, in the tenth century, it found a resting-place at Durham where the Norman Bishops erected the present great Cathedral in his honour. The recent excavations on Holy Island undertaken by the Office of Works have brought to light a number of stone crosses and name stones dating for the most part from the Anglian period (A.D. 675-875), now preserved in the small museum on the site. But of artistic products the most famous is the Lindisfarne gospels, the superb illuminated manuscript of the early years of the eighth century ·MEDIÆVAL PERIOD 27 which is one of the chief treasures of the British Museum The flowering period of Anglian art was short It may have begun with the arrival of Theodore of Tarsus from Byzantine lands, but more probably it was due to the introduction of Italian craftsmen by St Benedict Biscop, the founder of the monasteries of Jarrow and Wearmouth in the last quarter of the seventh century It continued through the first half of the eighth century and then decayed, being finally overwhelmed by the Viking invasions in the ninth century It produced in illuminated manuscripts and sculptured reliefs most remarkable works of art, blending the age old traditions of La Tene Celtic ornament with Mediterranean motifs, and may well have been the cause rather than the consequence of the artistic revival in Ireland between the late eighth and eleventh centuries The High Cross of Bewcastle, still in situ in the most northerly parish churchyard in Cumberland, inscribed with Runic letters, contains motifs such as the vine scroll which must be of Mediterranean origin The similar fragments of the Easby Abbey cross in the Victoria and Albert Museum bear traces of the same cultural impact The cross at Irton in South Cumberland also dates from the eighth century These earlier High Crosses of Northumbria are quite distinct from the tenth and eleventh centuries wheel head crosses of the Christianized Viking period Perhaps the finest of these Viling crosses is that at Gosforth in Cumberland The most important and extensive remains of an Early Anglian monastery of so called Celtic type are those recently excavated alongside the later Benedictinę abbey ruins of Whitby This Abbey of Streoneshalh was founded and ruled by St Hilda, a great niece of King Accfrith of Northumbria, in AD 657 The ·28 MEDI.VAL PERIOD foundations of many cells and oratories have recently been excavated in which important finds were made, such as gilt bronze ornaments with openwork interlncing patterns. This monastery produced at least two notable sons bcfore it was ruthlessly destroyed by the Vikings in A.D. 870. First we may mention Caccmon, a name which suggests Celtic rather than Anglian blood, who was the first English poet. The other was St. John of Beverley, over whose shrine still riscs the great church of Beverley Minster. Anglian civilization under the Kings of Northumbria extended both sides of the Border and reached a higher level of culture than any part of Britain in the seventh, cighth and carly half of the ninth century. It was shattered by the Vikings, invasions of Danes, Norwegians, and Icelanders who first destroyed and then colonized the northern countics. To the Vikings we owe the division of Yorkshire into “ ridings” and wapontakcs," and the numerous place names ending in" by,” “thwaite” and “scale.” It was owing to the Anglians and thc Vikings that the Scottish Lowlands lost their predominantly Celtic character, Though the Vikings were gradually Christianized their inroads lasted till the Norman Conquest. Harold I ladrada, the Landwaster, of Norway met defeat and death at Stamford Bridge from Harold, the Saxon King of England, in 1066, and it was this battle that so weakened the military strength of the Saxon host that it cnabled William of Normandy to achieve the victory of Hastings a few weeks later. Thc Norman Conquerors built abbeys and cathedrals as well as castles. The Conqueror himself founded the Abbey of Selby, and made the Bishops of Durham, who were ex officio Abbots of the Benedictine Cathedral Monastery, Counts Palatine of the North. The Norman priories of Lindisfarne and Finchale

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·MEDIEVAL PERIOD 29 rose as cells of the Cathedral Monastery of Durham, the former built, no doubt, by the same craftsmen who erected the great naves of Durham and Dunfermline, those revolutionary craftsmen who were the first to throw a "ribbed " stone vault over a great nave, It was completed by 1133 To the Benedictines of Durham is due the reestablishment of monastic buildings on the old Anglian site at Tynemouth, but their foundation was short lived owing to quarrels with Robert de Mowbray, the Norman Earl of Northumberland The latter expelled the Durham monks and gave the site to the Abbey of St Alban's in Hertfordshire Tynemouth Priory remained a cell of St Alban's till the dissolution The erection of the present church was begun in 1085 The body of Malcolm Canmore, King of Scotland, who had fallen at Alnwick, was buried at Tynemouth in 1093 and the bones of St Oswin were translated there in The existing remains of the Norman church are but scanty, though we still possess much of the additions at the east and west ends made about the year 1200 Similarly at Whitby little remains of the Norman building, but much of the magnificent thirteenth century Gothic choir still stands To King Henry I we owe the introduction into England of the order of the Augustinian canons regular, and Carlisle, a new see created by Henry I, 18 10teresting as being the only pre Reformation cathedral that was served by Augustinian canons and not bv Benedictine monks It is to this northern impact of Augustinian in- Auence that we owe the great churches of Hexham, Lanercost and Brinkburn, all of them admirable examples of the first pointed arch style of the end of the twelfth and beginning of the thirteenth century All have one special peculiarity The naves were built YI10

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·ME DIÆVAL PERIOD 31 by St Stephen Harding, an Englishman, but extended far and wide through Western Europe by the genius of the most distinguished son of the Cistercian Order, St Bernard of Clairvaux The strict discipline of the order is embodied in the “Carta Caritatis”, and the rectitude of its early observance made it popular both with the pious and with lay founders throughout the North The first Northern Cistercian abbey was Rievaulx, founded in 1131 by Walter l'Espec, Lord of Helmsley Its first Abbot, llallam, had been St Bernard's personal secretary As early as 1136 Rievaulx became the Mother House of Melrose Abbey in the Valley of Tweed, founded by King David I of Scotland The shrine of William, the first abbot who received local if not Roman canonization, was rediscovered in the recent erarations by the Office of Works immediately to the left of the entrance to the Chapter House Rievaulx early became one of the largest and richest Cistercran abbess in the kingdom and already in the abbacy of St Aufred (1147-1166) is said to have housed no less than 140 professed monks an 600" conversi ” or lay brothers work at Rievaulx se bare only the ruins of Burgundian nave, transept and great cloister glories, apart from its setting are the noble thirte th century chore and frater (refectory) Thes among the greatest achievements of the s called Early English style eree bult The immense inge of Conventual buildings dormitors, kitchen, cloister and hal, tannery, etc., are gradually nce more firmary, being brought to light br the excavations undertaken by the Office of Torts Only a few miles awas another great Cistercian abbey, far more used than Riesauly, has also been taken over and exarated by the Office of Works namels Brlad, commenced on its present site efter Of twelfth centi Its are ·32 MEDIÆ VAL PERIOD removal from “old ” Byland, in 1177. Byland was the largest Cistercian church in England built in accordance with a single design, being 328 feet in total length and 135 feet wide across the transepts. The diameter of the great rose window over the west front, portions of whose tracery have now been unearthed, was 26 feet, almost the largest circular window in Britain. The whole church and nearly all the buildings belong to the end of the twelfth century. Notable features of Byland are the wealth of late twelfth or early thirteenth-century coloured tiles that ornamented the floor, as may now again be seen in one of the transept chapels, and the superb carving of the nave capitals now preserved in the temporary museum on the site. Our other Yorkshire Cistercian abbey in the south of the county, Roche, is but a splendid fragment of thirteenth-century design. At Furness in North-West Lancashire the remains are far more extensive and on a grander scale. The rich red sandstone of which it is built adds colour to the scene. In addition to the actual buildings there are temporarily housed in the infirmary chapel some of the earliest known freestone effigies of Knights in Armour in the country. What St. Bernard accomplished in the way of a reformed and strictly disciplined order for the Benedictine tradition, St. Norbert of Prémontré, near Laon, did for the Augustinian canons regular. Its chief house in England was Welbeck. The northern abbeys of the Præmonstratensian Order, Easby, near Richmond, and Egglestone, near Bowes, are in the guardianship of the Commissioners. The remains are less spectacular than those of the Great Cistercian houses, but Easby, founded in 1152, displays the considerable remains of the infirmary on the north side ·MEDIEVAL PERIOD 33 of the church, an irregular trapezoidal cloister, a vast Frater on the south side, a western range of most unusual character, and a well preserved early gate house Of other Augustinian houses Gisborough Priory, in the guardianship of the Commissioners, has little left save the eastern gables of late thirteenth century date, but at Kirkham there remains the magnificent late thirteenth century gateway still ornamented with fine niedıæval sculpture-note especially St George and the Dragon and David and Goliath-as well as a magnificent series of shields bearing coats of arms of great importance for the study of early heraldic art Happily too the ruined cloister of Kirkham retains an enriched “ lavabo" with traceried panelling of about the year 1300 Monasticism in England was at the height of its influence for the two hundred years preceding the Black Death in 1348 49 From this visitation which swept the monasteries they never really recovered Thereafter pious benefaction was directed to the endowment of colleges of secular or chantry priests, and to the building or enlargement of parish churches Accordingly Perpendicular work is as rare in our monastic remains as it is common in parish or collegiate churches Towards the end the monasteries tended to become more and more the life properties of the abbots who in early Tudor times built for themselves separate and more comfortable accommodation But no part of England suffered greater social and economic disturbance than the North from the dissolution of the monasteries under Henry VIII TH the old foundations still enjoyed widespread affection and support is witnessed by the ill starred Pilgrimage of Grace Apart from the active destruction of monastic buildings at the dissolution, there have been nearly ·34 MEDIÆVAL PERIOD four centuries of neglect. Only in the last twenty ycars has this process been arrested, and skill and labour once more employed in the conservation of places that were during turbulent centuries the centres of picty, art, learning and charity. Two ecclesiastical monuments in the guardianship of the Commissioners in the Northern Counties are more particularly associated with individual anchorites or hermits-namcly Finchale Priory in Durham and the fourteenth-century Hermitage cut out of the rock in the valley of the Coquet, near Warkworth. The former, which became an ordinary Benedictine priory of Durham Cathedral, owes its origin to the solitary piety of St. Godric who died early in the twelfth century and whose oratory was incorporated in the first church; his coffin has been discovered in the recent excavations. The rock-cut chapel of the Warkworth Hermitage seems to have been founded about the year 1350 by some Lord of Warkworth for some individual recluse, and to have continued with an endowment for a succession of hermits for several generations. Its romantic form and situation and the inexplicable sculptured figures in a niche on the south side of the altar have given rise to numerous legends, but its exact significance still remains largely a matter of speculation. CASTLES In the six northern counties the Commissioners are the guardians of no less than seventeen castles or portions of castles of the mediæval period. These include, both on account of site and architectural features, some of the finest in the kingdom ; and in no area can the evolution of the English castle be studied with better examples.

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·. Lindisfarnc Priory. North Aislc and Interior of West Tront.

·MEDIEVAL PERIOD 35 The building of stone castles was an introduction of the Norman Conquerors Before the Conquest practically the only form of defence was the Anglo- Saxon “ bush" consisting of an earthwork with or without a wooden palisade surrounding the duellings The Norman (also wooden) of a village community castle was essentially different, being the personal military stronghold of a feudal lord or of the King's officer During the reigns of William the Conqueror and his successor Rufus very few castles were constructed in stone, almost the only certain exceptions being the White Tower of the Tower of London, Colchester, parts of Durham, Tamworth, and the curtain walls, gatehouse, and hall of Richmond in Yorkshire The immense number of new Norman castles made in the eleventh century throughout the country consisted of a bailey surrounded by a ditch and defended by a wooden palisade containing at the highest point within its enceinte an artificial mount or motte” of earth which was in turn strengthened by further wooden defences The Conqueror's own twia castles at York on either side of the river were of the motte and bailes type This original form of Norman castle can be traced at Pickering in the vale between York and Scarborough in the North Riding The motte remains, but its wooden defences were replaced at Pichering in the twelfth century by a stone" shell" Keep, one of the few of a type s hose remains still existe Skipsea Brough in Holderness is a typical carly rotte and bailey castle beg soon after the Conquest The east and west curtain walls and parts of the gatehouse of the great triangular castle of Richmond 278 among the earliest extant examples of Norman stogo work Characteristic early herring bode t-250255 O the Conqueror's reign is still visible The Hoario 4 ·36 MEDIA VAL PERIOD Richmond was granted by the King to Alan the Red, son of Eudes, Count of Penthievre, a near relative of the reigning Duke of Brittany. He held Richmond till 1089 and the main walls were his work. In addition to these walls there remains from this early period in the south-east corner of the inner bailey the eleventhcentury Stone Hall named after Scolland, the sewer of Earl Alan the Red, an almost unique monument of so carly a date. The disastrous reign of Stephen witnessed the growing menace to the State of the building and strengthening of feudal castles by rapacious lordlings, and in the north the opportunity for Scottish invasion and destruction, but with the coming of Henry II, the greatest and certainly the most energetic of our mediæval kings, the control of all castles was resumed by the Crown. Many were destroyed, and many were transformed, enlarged and strengthened either directly by the King or under strict royal licence. During the closing years of Stephen the north had been overrun by the Scots, and it was not until 1157 that Malcolm, King of Scotland, yielded up to Henry II the castles of Carlisle, Bamburgh and Newcastle-on-Tyne that he had occupied. To the reign and action of Henry II (1154-1189) we owe some of the finest and most icmarkable of our great Norman castles and not least in the northern region. The great feature of this period was the square keep of ashlar, and of those in State guardianship in the area, Norham, Carlisle, Brougham, Brough, Bowes, Helmsley, Middleham, Richmond, and Scarborough remain witnesses of the immense advance effected in the scale and skill of building craft during the latter half of the twelfth century. The Great Keep of Richmond built over the earlier gatehouse is over 100 feet high and ranks with Rochester, Dover, Portchester and Heding- ·MEDIEVAL PERIOD 37 ham among the finest twelfth century towers in the country Bowes, placed in the angle of the old Roman fort commanding the Yorkshire approach to the Stainmoor pass over the Pennines on the Roman road from York to Carlisle, is unique in that it is the single instance of a great Norman rectangular keep constructed by Henry II between 1171 and 1187, unconnected with any other buildings More usually the keep was but part of the newly strengthened stone defences of the bailey In larger castles not content with one bailey a new outer bailey, such as the "cochpit” at Richmond, was added at this period, and the defences of the main entrance to the castle were improved by gate towers and the throwing forward of the gate defences by the erection of a forward building or "barbican” Apart from shell ” keeps which conformed to the contour of the original motte, rectangular building of subordinate tower defences as well as of the keep was characteristic of the twelfth century In the thirteenth circular and polygonal towers began to take their place The main south gatehouse of Warkworth whose present enceinte was largely the work of Robert FitzRoger in 1199 consists of a pair of polygonal towers with a series of semi octagonal turrets at the angles This is among the earliest parts of a castle of quite exceptional interest and magnificence, described by Hamilton Thompson as the epitome of the history of the castle from its Norman origin to its practical identification in the later Middle Ages with the large Manor house" The greater part of the thirteenth century was devoted in the north to the building of abbeys rather than castles, and the new concentric type of castle derived from Syria by the influence of the Crusaders was not developed here This new type was adopted by Edward I at Caernarvon, Conway, Harlech and ·38 NIEDIEVAL PERIOD Beaumaris in his subjugation of the Welsh. It was only in the last years of his reign that this vigorous soldier king turned his attention to his northern frontier, and he died near Carlisle in 1307 on a Scottish campaign. The reign of his weakling successor saw the Scottish victory of Bannockburn and thereafter the northern counties of England lay under the perpetual menace of Scottish raids till the time of Flodden Field. Even later, in the early part of the reign of Elizabeth, the walls of Berwick-upon-Tweed were refortified in the “ Italian manner and it was not until the Union of the Crowns of England and Scotland in 1603 that the North Country could feel any security of peace. After Bannockburn there was great activity in the building of new castles and the restoration and extension of old. Of castles of this period in the guardianship of the Commissioners we may note Dunstanburgh on the Northumberland coast, and Tynemouth Castle guarding the Priory. The fine ruins of Dunstanburgh are the remains of the castle built by Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, under a licence granted by Edward II in 1316. Belonging to the Earldom of Lancaster were not only the Castle of Lancaster itself, but, in Yorkshire, Pontefract, Knaresborough and Pickering as well as Dunstanburgh in Northumberland. Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, was the cousin of Edward II, being the son of Edmund, younger son of Henry III. As chief of the Lords Ordainers he was an active opponent of Edward II and his favourites and was the main organizer of the downfall and death of the King's notorious favourite, Piers Gaveston. However, in 1322 he was captured by the King and executed at his own castle of Pontefract. The work at Dunstanburgh, especially the great gatehouse keep with its round towers, is mainly ·Norharn Castle The keep ·38 MEDIEVAL PERIOD Bcaumaris in his subjugation of the Welsh. It was only in the last years of his reign that this vigorous soldier king turned his attention to his northern frontier, and he died near Carlisle in 1307 on a Scottish campaign. The reign of his weakling successor saw the Scottish victory of Bannockburn and thereafter the northern counties of England lay under the perpetual menace of Scottish raids till the time of Flodden Field. Even later, in the early part of the reign of Elizabeth, the walls of Berwick-upon-Tweed were refortificd in the “ Italian manner and it was not until the Union of the Crowns of England and Scotland in 1603 that the North Country could feel any security of peace. After Bannockburn there was great activity in the building of new castles and the restoration and extension of old. Of castles of this period in the guardianship of the Commissioners we may note Dunstanburgh on the Northumberland coast, and Tynemouth Castle guarding the Priory. The fine ruins of Dunstanburgh are the remains of the castle built by Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, under a licence granted by Edward II in 1316. Belonging to the Earldom of Lancaster were not only the Castle of Lancaster itself, but, in Yorkshire, Pontefract, Knaresborough and Pickering as well as · Dunstanburgh in Northumberland. Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, was the cousin of Edward II, being the son of Edmund, younger son of Henry III. As chief of the Lords Ordainers he was an active opponent of Edward II and his favourites and was the main organizer of the downfall and death of the King's notorious favourite, Piers Gaveston. However, in 1322 he was captured by the King and executed at his own castle of Pontefract. The work at Dunstanburgh, especially the great gatehouse keep with its round towers, is mainly

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·Brougham Castle. Gatehouse and Keep.

·MEDIAVAL PERIOD 39 his, though additions were made by his more famous successor in the Earldom of Lancaster, John of Gaunt, the son of Edward III The most magnificent, best preserved and advanced late medieval construction is the reconstructed keep of Warhworth, probably carried out by the first Percy Earl of Northumberland, the father of Harry Hotspur, early in the fifteenth century The Castle of Penrith in Cumberland erected by the Bishops of Carlisle dates from the fourteenth century, the era when the numerous fortified houses commonly called Pele Towers which are widely distributed in the two border counties, were introduced That even after the era of stone fortifica tions important castles still continued to rely on the defence of earthworks is well exemplified by the enormous ditches covering the north and western sides of Helmsley Castle In their present form these too seem to date from the fourteenth century, and their recent excavation by the Office of Works reveals the formidable nature of such works Of all the castles in the guardianship of the Com missioners there are few more splendid than that of Norham on the Tweed, a few miles west of Berwick Norhamshire and Islandshire were two areas geo graphically in the northern part of the county of Northumberland but administratively part of the domains of the Bishops Palatine of Durham The castles of Durham itself and Norham were their greatest achievements in military architecture The scale and magnificence of both are truly remarkable Norham, exposed to the first onslaught of every Scottish invasion or raid, had need to be strong Many times besieged and damaged, many times repaired and strengthened, its remains show evidences of almost every date betu een the twelfth and sixteenth centuries inclusive The greater part of the formidable heep ·40 MEDIÆVAL PERIOD still standing is the work of Bishop Hugh Puiset towards the end of the twelfth century and though in partial ruin is a fine example of a great Norman fortress. That it successfully withstood sieges even when the Scots had obtained possession of the outer bailey is hardly to be wondered at. The long story of warfare at Norham is a terrible revelation of the political consequences of the disunion of the Northern and Southern Kingdoms. What the wall had been during the Roman occupation, the castles of Carlisle, Norham and its neighbour, Wark (now almost entirely destroyed) and the fortified town of Berwick-upon- Tweed were throughout the Middle Ages.

·1 of NOTES Ats cumber of monuments for which guide books are pot ret aradable, the Custodian has a few hand boards of which notes of the history of the building are recorded, together with a plan. These are available for use br the public without charge. Real photographic postcard views of monuments are also oc sale, at buildings marked with an asterisk at ild cac. Further views are in course of producin PES" onesnar be taken by visitors with permet ascept at buildiags occupied by the niit! In theseases the assent of the military must be robuured The use of stand cameras is subject to the disr the Ces can Fes. These are indicated cach CON Creosder fourteen Fears of age » mitted 26 ha porce At monuments generall *1es of ETC -0e visitors are admitted or plicatior to the Costco at half price. For parti ut elesen totramber, the minimum fee is 2 CLUBERLAND Eze: E7274, Roran Wall TEI! Tas bata by the Emperyo Hasme D 121-123 imecreof the Eng Irons from a sece E Tece Srir, 75 miles Loc : there are TL Ta cf the Pure Itens toe all as zacke terets be of store, be *2" Trds bei segre, fee: tra Sorter et de medido : OF G est conf Laser Porr (ny) Cabe (d or ss. Gla.

·42 NOTES * Carlisle Castle Ercction was commenced under William Rufus and completed after capture by David, King of the Scots. Hlas a missisc lccp containing a museum. Allary, Queen of Scois, occupied a building that stood near the lccp. Situatior. Commanding the crossing of the Eden at Carlisle. Horrs of Admissio!!. Weekdays. Sundays. March-Mas 10 a.m.-6pm. 2 p.m.-6pm. Junc-September 10 2.m.-7 pm. 2 p m.-6pm. October-February 10 a.m - pm. 2 pm.- p.m. Admission Fee. 6d., including services of Oicial Guide. Ralssy Stahon. Carlisle. Castlerigg, the stone circle on (Keswick) hnoun as Druids' Circle It consists of 38 standing stones in oral formation within which at the south-east is an oblong spice formed bi io other stones. Sotica1101. I mile and a half cast of Keswich. ridmission. It any time without charge. Railnay Station. heswich. Lanercost Priory Was a house of lugustinian Canoas founded about 1144 by Ililliam de Vaus, Remains consist of the church, the sub-Tault of the refectory and parts of the claustral buildings with later additions. Tombs of the Dacre and Howard families in the transepts. The narc of the church is still in use as the parish church and is not under the control of H.M. Office of works. Situation. On the bank of the Irthing, 2 miles from Brampton, 1 mile south of the Roman Wall. Admss10%. At ant time irithout charge. Railoa) Station. Nairorth. Penrith Castle Was built to defend Pennith against Scottish raids. toner on the site was built by Bishop Strickland of Carlisle. The present court-sard vas laid out at the end of fourteenth century. The interior has mostly disappeared.

·NOTES Situation In a public park opposite the railway station Admission During hours in which the Park is open to the public No admission fee Rails ay Station Pentith DURHAM * Tinchale Priory Benedictine priory erected on the site of the chapel of St Godric (hermit, 1115-70) Considerable remains of the church and claustral buildings dating from the middle of the thirteenth century Summation In a picturesque position on the banks of the River Wear s miles north of Durham Official Guade Book 6d Hours of Admission Weekdays Sundays. Summer 10am-7pm 10 am - 7 pm Winter 10 am 4 pm 10 a m-4pm Admission Fee 60 Railway Station Leamside or Plawsworth LANCASHIRE Furness Abbey Was founded in 1127 under the patronage of Stephen afterwards King of England The monks were originally of the order of Savigny but later joined the Cistercians There are extensive remains of the church and monastic buildings Situation In the “Glen of Deadly Nightshade about 6} miles from Ulverston and 14 from Barrow Gude Book (Unofficial) od Hours of Admission IF eekdays Stordays March-Alay 1o a m-6pm II 1 M pm June-September 10am-7pl October-February 1o a m-4pm I am 3pm Admission ree 6d Railway Station Furness Abbey * ·ཐབས {འཁབ་ ::: ༴ བ: - ག ཀྱང == ཁཡ: : sic: s• པསཡ ས མཚ མཆ ཡཁཟླ ལམེདཔ༌ མཁན་ 5cc-c-ས 3 ཎཱརཱཎཚམས་ཨཁགཉཔས པགདམསྶ ཚད་མ་ མ: ཨ: -- • :ཙཁང་ ངག- rས༴ དྷ འགས ༤. » Seps cr: ཁ་ སྨས་པ༌ # པ༌ལས་ ༤ - ཁཙE- ཁམ་སམང་ ལ་ ཨམ སྶ ཁ ནམཁས་པ་ཁབ ༤ ཨ་་འ ལ་ ལགགi---་ ཨཡic- མ༌ཡ: ---- མཛ ཝ མཁསྨཡ མཆ ཨ་མསྶ ཚ ཨe - ཨ = ཨ གླ བགམ དཀ༌ --- སྨ ཨས་, = = n: m-imཡ – ག ཨc གུག – ཨ་ མཁསྨrསམམ༌ :ཨ-- གབ ས པས་ e iབང༌ ཁག་གཨང་ ༤ ལ མ བང་ཀརྨ བr ལག་པ༔ ཏུ་གུ བ་མ་ བ ༤ བཀའ༌ དུག རྒྱ- ཆཀག - -m༤ པ༌ ཆ༌ ག་ མri ·Helmsley Castle ·44 NOTES NORTHUMBERLAND Bernick-01-TweedCastle and Town Walls The castle was originally built in the twelfth century. All that remains is the west wall with three bastions or towers on west facc. The town walls were originally built by Edward 1, but were reconstructed, paitly on a new line, under Elizabcth. Situation. The castle lies on the west of the town, by the railway station. Admission. At any time without charge. Railway Station Berwick-on Tweed. Vallnm Crossing, Condercum, Benwell An intcrcsting fcaturc of thc Roman Wall and Vallum. The latter is here crossed by an original causeway which gave access to the Fort of Condcrcum and was closed hy a gate. The sides of the causcway are revetted in stone. Only three such crossings have been so far discovered on the vallum. Station 2 miles west of Newcastle-on-Tyne. Railnay Station, Elswick. Corbridge (Corstopitum) Roman Station A Roman site situated at the crossing of the Tyne on the main Roman road from York into Scotland. In the first century an carth and ng fort. In the secon and carly third centuries, a mi cand depot. In t third and fourth centuries ar Excavated 1907–74, and mo again. The less crowded fringesc townshi not yet been re-excavated. admin buildings can be seen. Situation. On north bank OH Corbridge. Official Guide Book. 6d. Admission. d. Railnay Station. Corbridg ܐܶܝܺ ·NOTES 45 * Dunstanburgh Castle The castle stands on high cliffs above the sea and its walls enclose an area of about 9 acres It was built by Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, in the early fourteenth century and strengthened later by John of Gaunt Traces of Romano British occupation of the second century have been found on the site Situation North of Craster village, about 8 miles north east of Alnwick Access is by a footpath across ficlds Hours of Admission Weekdays Sundays October-March 10 a M-4 pm I 2 noon-4 pm Aptu September 10 am 6 pm 12 noon 4 pm Admission Fee 3d Railway Station Christon Bank * Lindisfarne Priory The cradle of English Christianity in the north Kingdom till it was destroyed by Danish invasions in 875 In 1082 the monastery was re established as a cell to the Benedictine abbey of Durham A large number of interesting stones of the Anglian and Viking periods and a collection of medieval pottery arc preserved in the museumn on the site Situation Holy Island Hours of Admission Weekdays Sundays Summer 8 a m-5 pm Closed Winter 8am-4 30 pm Admission Fee 60 Railnay Station Beal * Norbam Castle Was one of the strongest of the border castles and belonged to the Bishops of Durham Contains the ruins of one of the finest Norman keeps in the country It was built about ·NOTES 1160 by Bishop Hugh Puisct, and has been much altered at all periods down to thc sixteenth century. It was several timcs lcsicgcd by the Scots. Situation. On the Tweed 8 miles west of Berwick. Ilonts of Admission. Weekdays. Sundays. March-May 10 a.m.-6 p.m. i p.m.-6 p.m. Junc-Scptember 10 a.m.-7 p.m. I p.m.-7 p.no October-Fcbruary 10 a.m.-4 p.m. II a.m.3 p.m. idmission Frc. 6d. Railway Station. Norham. Roman Wall At its castern cnd the wall was always of stone and was 9 fact thick. Two sections of this are under the guardianship of the Commissioners. Denton Burn. 4 miles west of Newcastlc-on-Tync. Heddon on the wall. 8 miles west of Newcastle-on-Tyne. Situation. Both lic on the south side of the main road from Newcastle-on-Tync. Admission. At any time without charge. (Scc also under Banks East Turret, Cumberland, and Vallum Crossing, Condercum, Benwell, Northumberland.) Railway Statio. Scotswood. Tynemouth Castle A gatchouse keep with curtain wall and towers, erected in the fourteenth century for defence of the Priory. After the dissolution it continued in use by the Crown for coast dcfcncc and the walls contain later work. It is still in military occupation. Situation. West of the Priory. Admission. The interior of the gatehouse is not open to thc public. Railway Station. Tyncmouth. * Tynemouth Priory There was a monastic foundation here in Anglian times. Destroyed by the Danes 865 and finally abandoned 1008. Rcfounded in 1990 as a Benedictine priory and a call of St. Alban's Abbey. The nave dates from this time.

·NOTES 47 The east and south walls of the presbytery dating from the late twelfth century and carly thirteenth are fairly intact Recent excavations have revealed the foundations of other monastic buildings Situation Stands on a promontory bounded on the north by Tynemouth Bay and on the south by the River Tyne 8 miles east of Newcastle-on Tyne Hours of Admission Weekdays Sundays April-October 10 am-7pm Io a m-7pm November-March Io a m -Sunset 10 am -Sunset Admission Fee 3d Raila ay Station Tynemouth * IVarken orth Castle The earlier remains date from the twelfth century and it was much altered in the thirteenth In the fourteenth century it came into the possession of the Percys, Earls of Northumber land who built the magnificent keep in the early fifteenth century It is still the property of the Duke of Northumber land Situation On River Coquet 71 miles south-east of Alnwick Hours of Admission Weekdays Sundays Summer March-May 10 am -6pm Io a m-4pm June-September 9am-7pm Winter October February 10 2 m-4pm IT a m-3 pm Admiss on Fee 60 Railnay Station Warkworth * Il’arks orth Castle, The Hermitage An interesting Hermitage consisting of a small chapel cut in solid rock with living rooms adjoin.ng It dates from the fourteenth century Access is by rowing boat Situation About a mile from the castle up the River Coquet Hours of Admission Same as the castle Admission Fee 6d (includes passage by boat) Railway Station Warkworth ·48 NOTES WESTMORLAND Arthur's Round Table, Penrith A prchistoric carthwork consisting of roughly circular arca 150 fact by 160 fcct in diameter bounded by a ditch with a bank on the outside. Simation. Immediately west of the main road at Eamont Bridgc, i milc south of Penrith. Admission. At any time without charge. Railway Station, Penrith. * Brougham Castle There are extensive remains of the kecp of about 1170 and of other buildings of later periods. It was finally added to and repaired by the Countess of Pembroke in the middle of the scvcntcenth century. Situation. On the site of the Roman Fort of Brocavum on the south bank of River Eamont just below its confluence with the River Lowther it miles east of Penrith. Hours of Admission. Meeksday's. Sundays. March-April 10 a.m.-6 p.m. 2 p.m.-6 p.m. May-September io a.m.-7 p.m. 2 p.m.-7 p.m. October-February io a.m.-4 p.m. 2 p.m.-4 p.m. Admission Fee. 6d. Railnay Station. Penrith. * Brongh Castle Considerable remains of keep of about 1170 standing in a prominent position on a hill with other buildings of later periods surrounding a paved courtyard. It was burnt down hy the Scots in 1521 and repaired in the middle of the seventeenth century by Anne Countess of Pembroke. Situation. Within the Roman Fort of Verterae, 8 miles south-east of Appleby just off the main road to Barnard Castle. Hours of Admission. Weekdays. Sundays. March-May 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Junc-September 10 a.m.-7 p.m. 2 p.m.-Dusk. October-February Io a.m.-4 p.m. Admission Fee. 3d. Railnay Station. Musgrave.

·NOTES 49 Mlayborough, near Penrith An oval area surrounded by a bank of stones and earth There is no ditch, near the centre is a large stone Situation West of Eamont Bridge, 1 mile south of Penrith Admission At any time without charge Railway Station Penrith YORKSHIRE Bones Castle A massive stone keep three storeys high dating from s 1170 Situation Within the Roman Fort of Lavatrae on the main road 4 miles west of Barnard Castle Official Guide Pamphlet ad Admission At present at any time without charge Railway Station Bowes * Byland Abbey A colony from the Savignac abbey of Furness, after some vicissitudes, having joined the Cisterclan Order, settled at Byland in 1177 The considerable remains of the church and monastic buildings date from the late twelfth and carly thirteenth centuries The glazed tiles which cover a large part of the floor of the nave and transepts art particularly well preserved Situation A mle north-east of the village of Coxwold, between Thisk and Helmsley Official Gude Book 60 Hours of Admission Weekdays Sundays March-May 10 am -G pm 11 am - 4 pm June-September 10 a m-7pm II a m-4 pm October-February 10 am - 4 pm Il a m3 pm Admission Fee 60 Railway Station Coxy old * Easby Abbey A Prämonstratenstan abbey dedicated to St Agatha, founded 1155 The church has mostly disappeared, but there are very considerable semains of the monastic buildings of most ·So NOTES unusual plan dating from the carly thirteenth century. The fratcr, remodelled about 1300, is particularly fine. Situation. On the banks of the River Swale, in a delightful setting about a milc cast of Richmond. Admission Fre. 7d. (Half price 4d.) Railway Station. Richmond. Egglestone Abbey Picturesque remains of a Præmonstratensian abbey. The greater part of the navc (twelfth to fourteenth century) aod the chancel (thirteenth century) are still standing together with remains of the claustral buildings. Situation. On the right bank of the River Tees about imiles south of Barnard Castlc. Hours of Admission, Il’eekday's. Sundays. March-May 10 a.m.-6 p.m. I p.m.-6 p.m. Junc-September Io a.m.-7 p.m. I p.m.-7 p.m. October-February Io a.m.-4 p.m. I p.m.-4 p.m. Admission Fee. 3d. Railway Station. Barnard Castle. Goathland Roman Road A stretch of the Roman road leading north from the camps at Cawthorn across Whccldale Noor. Probably dates from the end of the first century. The section under the guardianship of H.M. Office of Works is more than a mile in length and runs from Whccldalc Bridge towards Goathland. Situation. 2 miles south of Goathland Station, west of the Pickering-Whitby road. Admission. At any time without charge. Railway Station. Goathland. * Gisborough Priory A priory of Augustinian Canons founded in the first half of the twelfth century. Fine remains of east end of church of carly fourteenth-century date and a twelfth-century gatehouse are all that can be scen at present. The earlier church was burnt down in 1289. Sitriatior. Immediately to the south of the parish church. Official Guide Pamphlet. Price 2d. * ·Scarborough Castle.

·so NOTES unusual plan dating from the carly thirteenth century. The frater, remodelled about 1300, is particularly finc. Situation. On the banks of the River Swale, in a delightful scting about a mile cast of Richmond. Idmission Fur. 7d. (Half price 4d.) Railway Station. Richmond. * Egglestone Abbey l'icturesque remains of a Præmonstratensian abbcy. The Srcater part of the navc (twelfth to fourteenth century) and the chance! (thirteenth century) are still standing together with remains of the claustral buildings. Silation. On the right bank of the River Tees about 1. milcs south of Barnard Castlc. Hours of Admission. lleekdays. Sumdays. March-May 10 a.m.-6 p.in. I p.m.-6 p.m. Junc-September lo a.m.-7 p.m. I p.m.-7 p.m. October-February 10 a.m.-4 p.m. i p.m.-4 p.m. Admission For. 3d. Railway Station. Barnard Castle. Goathland Roman Road A stretch of the Roman road leading north from the camps at Cawthorn across Whceldale Moor. Probably dates from the end of the first century. The section under the guardianship of H.M. Office of Works is more than a mile in length and runs from Whccldalc Bridge towards Goathland. Situation. 2 miles south of Goathland Station, west of the Pickering-Whitby road, Admission. At any time without charge. Railway Station. Goathland. * Gisborough Priory A priory of Augustinian Canons founded in the first half of the tivclfth century. Fine remains of east end of church of carly fourteenth-century date and a twelfth-century gatehouse are all that can be seen at present. The earlier church was burnt down in 1289. Situatior.. Immediately to the south of the parish church. Official Guide Pamphlet. Price 2d.

·NOTES SI * Hours of Admission Weekdays Sundays March May 10 am-6pm 2pm-6pm June-September Io a m-7pm 2pm-7pm October February 10 a m-4pm 2 pm-4pm Admission Fee 60 Rajin ay Station Guisborough Helrsley Castle The keep and curtain wall and tower were begun at the end of the twelfth century by Robert de Roos In the middle of the sixteenth century a block of domestic buildings was constructed against the western curtain wall Besieged during the Civil War The earthu orks surrounding the castle are exceptionally finc Situation In the town of Helmsley, 12 miles east of Thirsk Official Guide Book 6d Horrs of Admission Weekdays Sundays April 22nd September zoth to a m-7pm 11 am - 4 pm October ist April 21st 10 a m 4pm IT a m3 pm Adission Fee 6d Railway Station Helmsley * Kirkham Priory A house of Augustinian Canons founded by Walter I 'Fspec The remains are extensive with a fine lavatorium and a gatehouse which has a remarkable display of late thirteenth-century heraldry Situation On the bank of the Derwent About 12 miles north-east of York Smiles south-east of New Malton Official Guide Book 6d Hours of Admission Eskdays Sundays 10 am -Sunset May-September 11 4 m -Sunset October-April Admission Fee 68 2pm -Sunset Raila ay Station York or Malton thenice by motor 'bus about 1125 ·WUR Dunstonburuh (1010 ·NOTES 31 Hours of Aristar March-Mas 10am-6pm 2 pm pm June September 10 am - 7pm 1-71111 October-februar 10 & npm apni 4 Admission Fee 61 Railuay Station Guisborough Helmsley Castle The keep and curtain wall and toucrucrc login at the end of the twelfth century by Robert de Roy Intte milile of the sixteenth century a block of domestic building w constructed against the westcm curtain wall Besicca during the Civil War The carthworks surrounding the castle are exceptle 11ally fine Situation in the town of Helmsley, 12 miles cast af Thiruk Official Guide Book 6d Hours of Admission Weckelas Sultys April 22nd September 30th 10 am-7pm 11 AM 1111 October 1st-April 21st 10 a m-4pm II a - pm Admission Fee 6d Raila ay Station Helmsley * Kirkham Priory A house of Augustinian Can ni Walier I'LLC The remains with a finc lavatorium and a gatchouscu! ni te dieplayer late thirteenth-century heraldr $11chon On the bank of the 1) north-east of York Oriel Glude Book Houts of Admission Izerda IO 2ms about 1125 dt مار را 1 Smiles ALSE FR w Peb, SL. York or la ·NOTES * ficcar Castila Begin 2002:::-- bricor F Facol. Tri.com cias 2:25sine concoincidcii. conde 1972: accisose, Si..... I TO Dal : missourc: Lotar. OGze 56 6 n. 6. Pear San. Lt. More Braxtor Priori por 20: Coniec bouse, with cosident's cominci Decco ang classz! buildings. Par - Test Penge 25 ocal:eredio: 2 residence in :r:1.csorerienti cea Toe se cacboas it income in bass. Situer. In the lace ci Work Bicon bou: :: 200est c: Dans!. HATI.CO. 52.7 Diri. 5:-D is... 6. PSdr. Vori: Breton * Pickering Castle Co-side se emrine ci e:: ciocnire no carr: ***::-. en este misselice sepe.:-*: Comments 0:0=***:! disirinkt: Richard Il acc 1975 mic: mission Siraz:'.. Oa: 32 sideci: r * * :02. T. Werchas juce-Soinine Ozxair. - Fr. 6: S:::.- Picco ·NOTES 53 * Richmond Castle Richmond Castle occupies a strong position commanding Swaledale It was first built in the eleventh century, and Arn to the 111 and 11 (1) Situation Standing above River Swale, overlooking town of Richmond 4 miles west of Catterick Ofictal Guade Book 60 Hours of Admission Weekdays Sundays October-May To a m-Sunset 11 am -Sunset June-September 9 am -Sunset 10 am -Sunset Admission Fee 60 Rarluay Station Richmond * Rieraulx Abbey The abbey was begun by the Cistercian monks about AD 1132 The nave is the earliest large Cistercian nave in Britain and it is older than any now standing in France It dates from about AD 1139-1140 The choir is one of the finest examples of the work of the thirteenth century The extensive monastic buildings are well preserved Situation Beautifully situated in Rvedale, 3 miles northeast of Helmsley Oficial Guide Book 60 Hours of Admission Sundays March-May 10 a m-6pm June-September 9am-7pm Closed October-February TO 2 m-4pm Admission Fee IS Railway Station Helmsley # Roche Abbey Cistercian abbey founded in 1147 Of the church only the valls of the north and south transepts are stul standing to their full height, but the remains of the whole of the monastic buildings are extensive A fine gatehouse lies to the north west of the church II" eekdays

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·29
Richmond Castle
The keep

·54 NOTES Situation. In a picturesque rallcs 11 miles south of Jaklı, 8 miles west of Rotherham. Official Guide Book. 6d. Hours of Admission. 11"ackdays. Sirds. 8.m.-Sunset Closed. Admission Fr. 6d. Railway Station. Rotherham. Scarborongh Castle Remains of twelfth-century castle with keep which devenirates the town of Scarborough. Besicged twice and alcohol Parliamentarians 1643 and 16.8. It was also demand line shell fire during the War, 1914-1918. George ling Quaker, was imprisoned here in 1665. On the rule of the cliff are the remains of the fourth-century Rom.in Siena! Station. Situation. On a high cliff overlooking the cathie C. of the town. Hours of idmissiou. 9 a.m.-dusk. Admission: Fre, d. Railway Station. Scarborough. Skipsea Brongh A large circular Norman motte scparated from the luie bo a lerc space formerly covered with waller, losna Sira Merc. ill causeway Icd across the More to the hiles. 41. i was of large sizc, coucring 8acros Situation. 9 miles south of Bridlington, i miles ..:: Hornsca. dmission, le any time without charge. Ruilay Stalico: Ilornsca. Spofforth Castle An carly fourteenth century building will inicia'!!:04:21 There are the icmains of a ball arsi nulis in, vi? first floor. Onc wall of the ground flouri feromed ichiin?

·Richmond Castle The Keep

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·the east
Hours of Admission
Weekdays
March May
10 am -6pm
June-September 9am 7 pm
October February to a m 4 pm.
Admission Fer 6d
Railway Station Whitby
Sundays and
Public Holidays
10 am - 4 pm
10 am -4 pm
t a m-3 pm
* Clifford's Toner, York Castle
*T*L.
Situation in the southern part of the city
of York
Hours of Admission
Peekdays
Sundays
March-May
Io a -6 pm
June-September
10 2 m 7pm
Closed
October February to a m-4 pm
Admission Fee 60
Railnay Station York

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